If you’ve got sensitive skin you’ll be used to checking the backs of skincare packs to see what’s in there and what’s not. Even if you haven’t, you’ve probably glanced at the small print and noticed that the first ingredient is almost always Aqua. You can dress it up in Latin, but it’s still good old water (albeit distilled). And number one on the list means there’s more of it than anything else in the product.
Water is wonderful stuff. But perhaps like me you’ve wondered if there mightn’t be simpler, cheaper ways of enjoying its benefits. We’re not alone. Waterless skincare has been a big seller in Korea for some time.
What first got me interested in Kat Burki was the apparent absence of water. Cut to the line-up for the Rose Hip Eye Serum, and the first ingredients on the list are:
-KB5™ Complex (Arnica, Gotu Kola, Lavender, Calendula, Chamomile)
-Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice
-Bio-processed Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Seed Oil
Water doesn’t appear further down the list either. That’s because Kat Burki doesn’t believe in ‘fillers’ (alcohol and dimethicone are other common ones). In their place is a complex of five super nutrients chosen for the way they work together (not just for their individual skin benefits). They call this ‘intelligent ingredient combining’ and it’s another key part of the Kat Burki offer.
Next thing I notice is that the ingredient the product is named after (in this case Rose Hip) is fairly near the top of the list. I’m always disappointed when I buy a cream with a big name, and a big promise, only to discover the hero hiding in the wings at number twentysomething.
And then there’s the bio-processed claim which hints at the respectful way in which Kat Burki treat ingredients. The first brand to certify cold processing, ingredients are combined at temperatures below 49 degrees C because heat messes with their potency and causes them to degrade faster. Think raw food versus school sprouts. Imagine antioxidants that still have the strength to be truly anti the oxidants.
So, where to start with the range?
Standing upside down on my bedside table, to catch every last drop, are two products perfectly suited to sensitive maturing skin: Rose Hip Revitalising Serum (£132 for 30ml, Space NK) and Intense Recovery Rose Hip Eye Serum (£100 for 15ml, Space NK).
Rose Hip is a skin-strengthening antioxidant rich in brightening Vitamin C. In the face formula it’s joined by extra Vit C in the form of ‘Stay C’ – a patented and stable form of ascorbic acid which strengthens and brightens skin and which is the hero in the best-selling product in the Kat Burki range (Vitamin C Intense Face Cream). In the eye formula Rose Hip is joined by Retinol for anti-ageing and DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol to its friends), a naturally produced anti-inflammatory that helps to reduce wrinkles around eyes. Both have a great, light texture that’s a joy to use. And they work.
Eyes appear to be a particular strength for Kat Burki. Sadly not available in the UK yet (but you can order from the US at www.katburki.com) are the KB5 Eye Recovery Masks which are soaked in botanical Hyaluronic Acid, plant stem cells, silk amino acids and avocado oil to reduce puffiness. As skin matures, the rich and creamy complete b Eye Crème Complex (£156 for 15ml, Space NK) is plumped with anti-ageing actives. It’s so good I leant mine to an eye cream sceptic last week to make the point that eye creams, done well, are worth the investment. I doubt I’ll get it back!
The Kat Burki range is expanding fast. In the time I’ve been testing these products three new ones have launched in the US – a Super Nutrient Elixir, an Illume Brightening Serum and a pH + Enzyme Essence. The elixir and the essence have my name all over them (skin pH would probably be my Mastermind special subject) but, in the meantime, the hero of the range for me is complete b Vital Hydration Face Mask (£112 for 130ml, Space NK). Perfect for sensitive ageing skin, this overnight super hydrator will transform dehydrated skin and is great as a nourishing after sun treatment.
There are lots of beautiful Victoria Secrets models floating about on the website. I dare say that’s part and parcel of trying to grow a global skincare brand, but this is every bit a brand for real women. Real women with deep pockets, because if these products work as well for you as they do for me there’ll be no going back.
Space NK is your best bet price wide. Net-a-porter now list Kat Burki too, but they’re more expensive. I’ll keep you up-to- date with new UK stockists and products as and when they launch.
To find our more visit www.katburki.com